Local Shopping
When you come down from the house to Ponte a Serraglio there is a small fruit and vegetable shop just past the Bar Italia. Before you cross the bridge, you can turn right to Fornoli or left to Ville. Both have small supermarkets. In Fornoli the Coop is set back from the road on the left and in Ville the Conad is just before the main part of town, set back on the right. Both have car parks. In Ville - the village centre - there is a small 'Carrefours' supermarket and a baker, butcher, wine shop and an excellent fruit and vegetable shop. There is a new Carrefours Market just before you enter Bagni di Lucca in Chifenti, which you will have passed on your way from Lucca. There are large supermarkets in Lucca (Esselunga and Carrefours), and on the other side of the River Serchio, at Borgo a Mozzano (Penny Market) and at Gallicano (Conad) on the road to Castlenuova. There are markets, with fish, vegetables and meat, on Tuesday and Friday in Fornoli and Wednesday and Saturday in Ville. www.bagnidiluccaonline.it/index.php lists other shops and services.
Ponte a Serraglio
As you walk down the hill from the house to the village the first building at the bottom of our lane is the Spa San Giovanni, restored but not open. Further down, behind barriers on a sharp bend is the Spa Docce Base, under restoration behind a screen. Going on down to the village, on your left is the newly restored Bernabo spa, well worth a restorative visit. At the bottom of the hill, at Ponte a Serraglio, there is a bar (Bar Italia) which includes a pastry and Ice-cream counter, a pharmacy, a post office (not full time) a tobacconist, a restaurant, the 'Cavellero Bruno', and a new fruit and vegetable shop which also has a few groceries and bread if ordered in advance. If you turn right by the Pharmacy and walk along the riverside you will come to a smart pedestrian bridge. Opposite the end of the bridge is a warm spring, spouting from the wall. If you take the road to your right from the spring outlet you will shortly come to the Villa Davidoff, with its chapel, now the 'Village Globale' retreat. Crossing the pedestrian bridge across the river takes you to the Villa Fiori, now boarded up and for sale (No reasonable offer refused!) with a park outside where several events are held through the summer, including a painting competition. On that side of the river is a hotel, bar and excellent new restaurant, the 'Corona'.
Lucca, Florence, Pisa, Viarreggio and AbetoneLucca is 30 minutes away. The moderately energetic may like to hire bicycles and ride all the way round Lucca's city walls. There is a large general market outside the walls on Saturdays and a craft market and an antiques/bric-a-brac market on the third and fourth sundays of each month. Watch out for 'midnight shopping' evenings on some Thursdays and Saturdays in summer when shops stay open until very late, and locals turn out in numbers after the tourist buses have left.
Opera lovers will know Lucca as the home of Puccini. There is a museum at his house and weekly concerts. In summer there is a music festival that attracts some of the biggest names in Rock and Pop music. Ed Sheeran is booked for 2024. In September a circus and fair comes to town. There is a huge comics and games festival in early November and many other events throughout the year. Florence needs no introduction, It is about 70 minutes away by car. You can usually park very conveniently beneath the station at Santa Maria Novella (SMN). If you prefer, you can catch a train from Lucca, Montecatini or Pistoia, leaving your car at the station carpark. There is more to Pisa than its relaxed tower and spectacular field of miracles, but they are pretty well compulsory when visiting this part of Tuscany. Warning - tourists by the coach load! An early morning or evening visit might allow greater appreciation. Viareggio is a seaside resort, with a huge sandy beach. As in most of Italy the beach is lined with clubs that will rent you tables and chairs, serve food and drink and (some) have good facilities for children. Choose your club and relax, or simply wander the streets and enjoy the Art Nouveau and Art Deco architecture. In February there is a huge (second only to Venice) carnival. There are several other resorts along this Versilia coast. In the winter Abetone is a busy ski resort, about an hour away. |
Bagni Caldi, Colle and La Ville
At the bottom of the lane to the house is the Spa San Giovanni, newly restored, but awaiting new owners. If you head down to Ponte A Serraglio you will pass the small, privately run, Spa Bernabo with its marble baths and cave and menu of cosmetic treatments. Alternatively, instead of turning left at the bottom of our lane, take the upward lane on the other side of the spa building. This brings you to the car park for the Terme. This is a large spa where you can book various treatments. It is perhaps more treatment orientated than pampering. The cave (Grotto) is particularly recommended and they offer a grotto and pool combination in the afternoons for €20 (at the time of writing). On the right of the hotel entrance go through the scaffolding holding up the remains of the Grand Hotel. You come out above the centre of Bagni Caldi.
If you are feeling energetic, walk on to the junction and turn right up the hill and you will arrive at Il Paretaio (a cafe in its prime, but now a private residence) a small parking area with a couple of stone seats. From here you can take the right turn up to the quiet village of Colle. Just before the village is a small parking area. Bear left to go through the village and, if you want to, follow a path leading up to a little chapel dedicated to the well respected Alpine regiment of the Italian army. You are now on top of the hill above the house, but we have yet to find a legitimate path down. Back at Il Paretaio, you can also choose to go downhill to Corsena - the original village - and the main part of Bagni di Lucca (Ville) from where you can find your way back to Ponte a Serraglio.
If you are walking, at the first bend on the lane down from Il Parataio, there are two paths on your right. Take the second, lower, downward path. This is the 'Lovers Walk', now rather dilapidated but quite safe, taking you back down to the old town spa with its fine villas around, an interesting part of the town that you may well otherwise miss.There is a 'Museum of Curiosities' in the large house associated with Shelley. The essayist Michel de Montaigne also lived in this part of town.
If you are feeling energetic, walk on to the junction and turn right up the hill and you will arrive at Il Paretaio (a cafe in its prime, but now a private residence) a small parking area with a couple of stone seats. From here you can take the right turn up to the quiet village of Colle. Just before the village is a small parking area. Bear left to go through the village and, if you want to, follow a path leading up to a little chapel dedicated to the well respected Alpine regiment of the Italian army. You are now on top of the hill above the house, but we have yet to find a legitimate path down. Back at Il Paretaio, you can also choose to go downhill to Corsena - the original village - and the main part of Bagni di Lucca (Ville) from where you can find your way back to Ponte a Serraglio.
If you are walking, at the first bend on the lane down from Il Parataio, there are two paths on your right. Take the second, lower, downward path. This is the 'Lovers Walk', now rather dilapidated but quite safe, taking you back down to the old town spa with its fine villas around, an interesting part of the town that you may well otherwise miss.There is a 'Museum of Curiosities' in the large house associated with Shelley. The essayist Michel de Montaigne also lived in this part of town.
Montefegatesi, Orrido di Botri and Prato Fiorito
There are nearly 30 villages and hamlets in the commune of Bagni di Lucca to explore. One of the more scenic is Montefegatesi. You can get there by driving down the hill to Ponte A Serraglio and, turning left, follow the road round to Ville. In town, turn left after the 'one-way' section of the main road, and then right following signs to Montefegatesi.
Alternatively, from the road down to Ponte a Serraglio, take a right turn at Villa Talenti where the big ‘TERME’ sign is. You then drive through an arch into the main square of Bagni Caldi. Turn left at the bottom of the square and then bear left at the junction outside the village. This will take you along the valley to Montefegatesi. Either route takes about 40 minutes by car.
Once there, leave the car on the roadside parking area avoiding the ‘reservato’ spaces, and walk up through the village to the Dante monument, with a panoramic view of the valley.
Returning to the car, continue down the road to a junction where you can turn left to the Orrido di Botri nature reserve. The road is reduced to a rough track, not easily negotiable in wet or icy weather. The track takes you down, eventually, to a bar and information office, from where you need to obtain hard hats. The bar is open (and can be crowded at weekends) only in summer months. From the car park you can walk up to and through the rugged canyons, reputedly Dante's entrance to hell. You can join a guide for longer walks or tackle the first stage without. The upper parts may be dangerous and un-passable in wet weather and winter. Notices will tell you if access is dangerous. You can return on tarmac roads by crossing the bridge and joining the SP56 main road back down the Val Fegani.
Alternatively (or additionally), head from Montefegatesi back towards Bagni di Lucca (Ville) and take the left turn to the Prato Fiorito. The track becomes rough and eventually(!) ends at an iron cross. Park here and walk across the hillsides and meadows in front of you and admire the wild narcissi and hellebores as you ruminate on your decision not to take out the extra insurance on your hire car.
If you look at the blog 'bellabagnidilucca' (see 'links' page) you can find descriptions, with photos, of nearly all the villages and hamlets that make up the commune of Bagni di Lucca.
Alternatively, from the road down to Ponte a Serraglio, take a right turn at Villa Talenti where the big ‘TERME’ sign is. You then drive through an arch into the main square of Bagni Caldi. Turn left at the bottom of the square and then bear left at the junction outside the village. This will take you along the valley to Montefegatesi. Either route takes about 40 minutes by car.
Once there, leave the car on the roadside parking area avoiding the ‘reservato’ spaces, and walk up through the village to the Dante monument, with a panoramic view of the valley.
Returning to the car, continue down the road to a junction where you can turn left to the Orrido di Botri nature reserve. The road is reduced to a rough track, not easily negotiable in wet or icy weather. The track takes you down, eventually, to a bar and information office, from where you need to obtain hard hats. The bar is open (and can be crowded at weekends) only in summer months. From the car park you can walk up to and through the rugged canyons, reputedly Dante's entrance to hell. You can join a guide for longer walks or tackle the first stage without. The upper parts may be dangerous and un-passable in wet weather and winter. Notices will tell you if access is dangerous. You can return on tarmac roads by crossing the bridge and joining the SP56 main road back down the Val Fegani.
Alternatively (or additionally), head from Montefegatesi back towards Bagni di Lucca (Ville) and take the left turn to the Prato Fiorito. The track becomes rough and eventually(!) ends at an iron cross. Park here and walk across the hillsides and meadows in front of you and admire the wild narcissi and hellebores as you ruminate on your decision not to take out the extra insurance on your hire car.
If you look at the blog 'bellabagnidilucca' (see 'links' page) you can find descriptions, with photos, of nearly all the villages and hamlets that make up the commune of Bagni di Lucca.
Barga
Barga is a hilltop town, about 15 minutes away by car. Park just outside the walls and walk up through the town until you reach the Duomo (cathedral) at the top. Once you have your breath back, the views are splendid. Barga belonged to Florence rather than Lucca and has a different feel than other towns in the area. It has strong affiliations with Scotland, a jazz festival, an opera festival a 'fish and chips' festival, and some good restaurants. Consult http://www.giornaledibarganews.com for current events.
Further on from Barga you can find the large and rather odd 'Il Ciocca' hotel/resort (http://www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/lcvbr-il-ciocco-tuscany-resort/). It can feel like a bit of a throwback but pretend that you are James Bond and have a cocktail hour there. The bar has a balcony with an impressive view looking over Barga and the valley.
If you are in the UK you may have seen a programme Alan and Amanda's Italian Job. It is set in Fornovalasco, a small village across the valley from Barga. Their frequent day trips may give you some ideas for your travels.
Grotto del Vento
This is a group of caves where the wind whistles through from one side of the Apuan alps to the other, making peculiar noises. It is about 40 minutes from the house, off to the left of the road to Castelnuovo del Garfagnana. See the website http://www.grottadelvento.com/ENG/home for full details. There is an entrance fee and you need to join a guided tour. Wear warm clothing.
Vagli
Lago di Vagli is a reservoir high up the Serchio valley. Head for Castelnuovo and then Aulla. Lookout for signs to Vagli and then Vagli Sotto. The road ends at a car park just before the small village. There is a pedestrian bridge across the lake and a walk to a lakeside picnic ground. It is a quiet corner of the Garfagnana.There is a long zip-wire at https://www.vaglipark.it/en/zipline/
Montecarlo
No, not THE Monte Carlo. Our Montecarlo is a small hilltop town surrounded by many renowned vineyards. You will find it a few kilometres off the old road to Florence, about a 40 minute drive from the house. For a fortnight at the beginning of September, they have a nightly 'festival' outside the town walls, where you can sample food from the restaurants and wine from the vineries in a crowded but genial atmosphere.
No, not THE Monte Carlo. Our Montecarlo is a small hilltop town surrounded by many renowned vineyards. You will find it a few kilometres off the old road to Florence, about a 40 minute drive from the house. For a fortnight at the beginning of September, they have a nightly 'festival' outside the town walls, where you can sample food from the restaurants and wine from the vineries in a crowded but genial atmosphere.
Montecatini Terme
Not enough spas in Bagni di Lucca? Montecatini is a different sort of place altogether. Grand hotels, splendid cafes, luxury shops, extensive parks and several top notch spas. You need to book treatments in advance, and a starting point might be http://www.termemontecatini.it.
There is a funicular railway joining the town to Montecatini Alto on a hill above the Tuscan plain where there is a pleasant piazza with several restaurants. The budget conscious might prefer to avoid the restaurants nearest the funicular station.
Montecatini is about an hour away by car on the old road to Florence. At the Esselunga roundabout on the way to Lucca, take the second exit. Follow the signs for the motorway (Tolls) The turnoff for Montecatini is some 20 minutes away.
There is a funicular railway joining the town to Montecatini Alto on a hill above the Tuscan plain where there is a pleasant piazza with several restaurants. The budget conscious might prefer to avoid the restaurants nearest the funicular station.
Montecatini is about an hour away by car on the old road to Florence. At the Esselunga roundabout on the way to Lucca, take the second exit. Follow the signs for the motorway (Tolls) The turnoff for Montecatini is some 20 minutes away.
Pietrasanta
Pietrasanta is known as a town of Artists, on the Versilia coast, an hour from Bagni Di Lucca. There are many galleries and boutiques to browse, numerous restaurants and an 'Antiques' market on the first and a Crafts market on the second Sunday of each month. When you have browsed and lunched it is a five minute drive to a long sandy beach (Marina Di Pietrasanta) lined with beach clubs but with easy access to the shoreline for the general public.
Pietrasanta is known as a town of Artists, on the Versilia coast, an hour from Bagni Di Lucca. There are many galleries and boutiques to browse, numerous restaurants and an 'Antiques' market on the first and a Crafts market on the second Sunday of each month. When you have browsed and lunched it is a five minute drive to a long sandy beach (Marina Di Pietrasanta) lined with beach clubs but with easy access to the shoreline for the general public.
Cinque Terre
A series of five picturesque villages perched on rocky peninsulas, north of La Spezia. They are linked by train and by footpaths, and are very popular with walkers. One way of enjoying them might be to start at Portovenere, away from the worst of the crowds, and catch a boat up the coast getting on and off at some or all of the villages along the way. It is a couple of hours from the house, by car. |
Pistoia
Pistoia is a pleasant town on the way to Florence, with a long history and some fine buildings, not so frequented by tourists. These days it is mainly known for trade in plants, supplying nurseries all over Europe, but a glance at the huge bank buildings will give you some idea of the wealth of the town, past and present. |
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Parma and Modena
Both Parma and Modena are renowned for their food. Parma is a long two and a half hour drive via motorway. It is a pleasant and peaceful city with plenty of good restaurants. Modena is about a three hour drive either via Parma or via Bologna (also of interest to those who like their food), You will be well rewarded for your efforts with excellent dining at very reasonable prices. A visit to Reggio Nell'Emilia, in between Parma and Modena, is also recommended. There is an equally long, but more challenging, route via Abetone. The Ferrari factory and exhibition is at Maranello, just outside Modena. |